Madrid’s neon scene – Paco Graco

Paco Graco’s goal is to protect and preserve the commercial signs (including neon signs) of the Iberian Peninsula, which in recent years have been torn down and destroyed in large numbers. On their website you can browse an excellent map of Madrid’s neon signs, categorized as Disappeared / At Risk / In Use / Protected / Rescued. (A map of Budapest’s neon advertisements was also created by the Neonon group back in the day, but unfortunately it hasn’t been updated since 2016.)

In addition to browsing the beautiful signs, you’ll also find short descriptions—so you can uncover real gems. Neon advertising mostly survives at old-fashioned, authentic spots, which means you’ll discover the best pubs and restaurants, too.

Here’s just one slightly sad but very typical story among many: after 50 years of operation, the Zahara café was replaced by a store from the Inditex group; fortunately, the neon sign was saved.

The name “Paco Graco” has a touching backstory: everyone called the founders’ uncle Paco (a diminutive of Francesco), who was a professional sign painter. His death in 2016 spurred the founders to honour him and save Madrid’s disappearing signs. Their long-term goal is to create an archive.

https://pacograco.org