The Last Neon Signs of Józsefváros
Let’s head back to Pest – more specifically to Józsefváros – and see how many neon signs we can still find in this district:
1. Derby Buffet – 6 Baross tér
A traditional pub with a history of more than 100 years, named after the former racecourse.
2. Vetőmag, VII. Rottenbiller utca 32–33, Esti Hírlap – 4 Baross tér
Esti Hírlap was published from December 1956 until the political transition, serving as the semi-official paper of the Budapest Committee of the MSZMP and the Metropolitan Council, though in practice it functioned more like a tabloid.
The Vetőmag neon once marked the headquarters of Hungary’s largest seed merchant. The business, founded by Ödön Mautner in 1874, became so successful that a five-storey seed warehouse was built, and the company employed eight hundred people. By 1895 it had grown into a globally significant enterprise, turning Hungary from an importer into an exporter in the seed trade.
After the German occupation, the Jewish Mauthner family was forced to flee, and the company was later nationalised. The neon sign, however, is still in place to this day — removing it alone would cost several million forints.
3. Vásároljon készruhát! (Buy Ready-to-Wear Clothes!) – 73 Rákóczi út
This building has a particularly interesting – and tragic – history. Since 1891 it had undergone numerous alterations and extensions, and the added upper floors weakened the structure. On 23 July 1936, the corner façade finally gave way under the weight and collapsed. Miraculously, the disaster claimed only one life: a maid named Matild Péntek, who happened to be in the corner room of a third-floor apartment.
Authorities launched proceedings against the architect responsible for the extension and the structural engineers, but because of the Second World War, the building was never restored to its original form. Instead, the damaged corner was simply closed off with a plain, undecorated wall.
This turned out to be convenient after the war for the Keleti Férfiruhasarok menswear shop run by the Ruházati Bolt Vállalat (RB), which occupied the ground-floor retail space. From the early 1950s, the corner of the building at the gateway to Rákóczi út was adorned with a huge neon sign depicting a man in a hat. The beautiful sign was altered in the 1960s and 1970s: the hatted man remained, as did the “Buy ready-to-wear clothes!” slogan, but by then he was holding his hat in his hand – and, in the meantime, had apparently gained a son as well.
4. Látszerész (Optician) – 44 Üllői út
One of my personal favourites – it already appeared in a photograph taken before 1956, and Sértz Optika itself has been operating here since 1954.
5. Tehertaxi (Cargo Taxi) – 31 Bacsó Béla utca
A Főfagyi ice cream shop now operates in its place, but the lettering on the pale blue background can still be admired.
6. Sztár Üdítő (Star Soft Drink) – 23 Rákóczi út
The soft drink once advertised here has long since disappeared, but this neon sign likely survived because of the high cost of removing it.
7. Ajándék (Gift) – 79 Baross utca
Vertical box letters that unfortunately have not served their original function for a very long time.
8. Kalász Espresso – 19 Kálvária tér
The café closed more than ten years ago, but the cheerful neon sign is still holding on –though in a rather battered, less cheerful condition.
9. Hotel – 44 Könyves Kálmán körút
Hotel Platánus is only a few steps away from the neon placed above the street corner, but it does not seem to be actively using this sign anymore.
If you feel like it, you can walk the whole route in a few hours – and if I missed anything, do write to cso@budapestneon.hu
Photos: Fortepan, Neonvadaszat.blogspot.hu
