The Neons of Ferencváros – Then and Now
Ferencváros never had quite as many neon signs as the more central districts of Budapest, as it wasn't particularly known for tourist attractions or bustling shopping streets. Still, a few illuminated advertisements popped up here during the neon era, and thanks to the photographs from the Fortepan archive, we can now get a little glimpse of them.
My personal favorite is the typography of the Posta (Post Office) neon sign, especially its extremely oval-shaped letter “o”. I also love the charming signs of the Híd Restaurant. The glowing letters even brightened up the rather gloomy Nagyvárad Square, while a few neon advertisements could also be spotted around Kálvin Square.
Photo of Nagyvárad Square in 1970 by Fortepan
Photos: Left – Posta sign on Lónyay Street in 1970; right – Papír-Írószer (Stationery) sign at Kálvin Square in 1973. Both photos from Fortepan
Photos: Left – neon signs on Vámház körút; right – neon signs at Kálvin Square in 1973. Both photos from Fortepan
Photos: Left – neon signs on Üllői út in 1974; right – neon signs on Ráday utca in 1972. Both photos from Fortepan
Back to the present! I've collected four old neon signs that can still be found in Ferencváros today, if you keep your eyes open.
1. Jópipa Pub – 6 Pipa Street, Budapest 1093
A true old-school pub that opens as early as 7 AM. Interestingly, János Farkas, a legendary Hungarian national football player of the 1960s, also worked as the pub's manager for a while.
Photo by István Prusinszki, 2012
2. Library – 2 Boráros Square, Budapest 1093
One of the branch libraries of the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library, which is still operating today, although its neon sign hasn't lit up in a long time.
3. Élelmiszer, Csemege (Groceries, Delicatessen) – 23 Lónyay Street, Budapest 1093
This is a particularly special sign, as not only has it survived, but it still lights up! What's more, the original function of the space has also been preserved: it now houses a SPAR supermarket, which also financed the restoration of the neon sign.
And this wasn't their only project of this kind: they also restored an old Közért (grocery store) logo in Tomori Passage. If only there were more great initiatives like this around the city!
Read more about the restoration on the Index Urbanista blog (in Hungarian).
4. Közért (Grocery Store) – Lónyay Street, Budapest 1093
This sign isn't marked on the Neonvadászat map, and I came across it completely by chance. There's a small grocery store called JÉ&BÉ underneath it. Unfortunately, the neon itself is no longer in very good condition.
And one more that disappeared a few years ago:
+1. Vörös Postakocsi (The Red Stagecoach) – 15 Ráday Street, Budapest
Named after a novel by Hungarian writer Gyula Krúdy, this restaurant serving traditional Hungarian cuisine opened in 1971 and was one of the characteristic dining spots of Ráday Street for decades. It has since closed down, and its neon sign also disappeared a few years ago.
Photo by István Prusinszki, 2010
If you're in the mood for a little exploring, you can visit all these locations on a walk lasting just a couple of hours. And if I've missed any old neon signs in District IX., be sure to let me know at cso@budapestneon.hu!
