Neon Memories of Újlipótváros
,In Budapest’s 13th district, there are several neon signs worth tracking down. The figurative neon sign of the Kiskakukk restaurant on Pozsonyi Road, which also carries folk-inspired motifs, has been in rather poor condition for years, yet its enormous size still makes it spectacular. The restaurant has been operating since 1913, and fortunately, the neon sign made in 1960 is under heritage protection.
Photos: István Prusinszki, We Love Budapest
Just a few steps away, you can find the beautifully lit Szűcs sign, which also belongs to a business that has been operating for more than 100 years: the realm of master furrier István Nagy. There is also a great interview with him here.
Photo: István Prusinszki
Not far from there, you can come across the Vígszínház Szervezés sign, which, unusually, still fulfils its original function and lights up Pannónia Street in red and blue.
Photos: István Prusinszki, Fortepan
On the other side of the Grand Boulevard, the Állami gazdaságok sign can still be found at 29 Szent István Boulevard, although it no longer has a function.
A little further on, we can also admire the neon sign of the Dagály Baths at 36 Népfürdő Street. The Dagály Baths were founded in 1948 and originally operated under the name Szabadság Open-Air Baths, but over the years they were renamed after the nearby Dagály Street. I really like the fact that during the Kádár era, locals in the district referred to the baths as the “People’s Washbasin.”
At 138/A Váci Road, there is a still-operating women’s and men’s hair salon and beauty parlour with a neon sign that no longer works, but is still there.
Photos: István Prusinszki
The charming sign of the Lehel restaurant has not been lit for a long time, although the eatery itself is still holding on at 17 Lehel Street.
I would also like to commemorate the district’s neon advertisements that have disappeared over the past few years. One of the most popular was the figure of the waitress on Szent István Boulevard: it was still there in 2016, but today the Szeráj operates in the building.
Photos: István Prusinszki
Another major loss is the disappearance of the two signs belonging to the nearby shop called Textilsarok: Méteráru, Pamut and Szövet. The shop was founded in 1946 by Zemler and Partner, and in 2016 it was definitely still operating, with the neon signs also lit. A small interesting detail: I recently received a photo of the Szövet sign, now beautifully restored in someone’s home after being purchased from Artkraft.
Photos: István Prusinszki
Much further away, the Papír Írószer sign has also disappeared from Fiastyúk Street – a perfect example of bad design. Although it worked aesthetically with its wavy letters, everyone read it as “Csapír Írószer” because of the unfortunate shape of the P.
Photo: István Prusinszki
The neon sign of the headquarters of Ofotért – the Company for the Sale of Optical, Fine Mechanical and Photographic Goods – also disappeared a few years ago from 43–45 Reitter Ferenc Street.
If you feel like it, you can visit all these locations on a walk of a few hours. And if I have left anything out, be sure to write to cso@budapestneon.hu.
